How to Smooth PLA Prints: 7 Methods That Work
Reading time: 8 min
Anyone who does 3D printing knows the problem: prints in PLA filament come off the printer with visible layer lines, small bumps and sometimes a rough surface. The print can be spot on for size and detail, yet the finish still leaves a lot to be desired. Fortunately, there are plenty of proven ways to smooth PLA, and they can make your 3D printed models look dramatically better.
In this article we go through the most effective post-processing techniques for PLA prints, from mechanical methods to chemical processes, so you can get a smooth, professional finish.
Why do PLA prints need smoothing?
A 3D printer builds a model layer by layer, which by definition leaves visible lines between the layers. Even at a fine resolution (for example a 0.1 mm layer height), these lines stay noticeable, especially when light hits the surface at certain angles.
The main causes of an uneven surface are:
- Visible layer lines: the natural result of FDM/FFF printing
- Stringing and blobs: excess material from oozing and poorly tuned retraction
- Imperfect calibration: leading to uneven extrusion
- Support marks: scars left where support structures touched the model
- Warping: slight deformation along the edges
‘Post-processing a 3D printed model matters as much as the printing itself. It turns a good print into an excellent finished piece.’ – a rule of thumb in professional 3D printing
Mechanical methods for smoothing PLA
Sanding: the go-to method
Sanding is the most accessible and controllable way to smooth PLA prints. It takes patience, but the results are predictable and effective.
How to sand properly:
- Coarse (80–120 grit): removes visible bumps and support marks
- Medium (150–240 grit): levels the surface
- Fine (320–600 grit): leaves a smooth surface
- Polishing (800–2000 grit): for a mirror finish (optional)
Sanding tips:
- Work in a well-ventilated room
- Wet sand for better results and less dust
- Sand in small circles rather than in one direction
- Apply even, moderate pressure
- Clean built-up material off the sandpaper regularly
Rotary tools
For complex shapes and hard-to-reach spots, a rotary tool such as a Dremel is invaluable for post-processing 3D prints:
- Sanding bits: for rough work
- Polishing bits: for a final shine
- Brushes: for textured surfaces
Caution: keep the speed low (5,000–10,000 RPM) so friction doesn't melt the PLA.
Trimming with a sharp blade
To remove strings, blobs and leftover bits of support, use:
- A hobby knife (X-Acto)
- A scalpel
- Dedicated 3D print finishing tools
Always cut away from yourself, and keep the blade sharp for clean cuts.
Chemical methods for smoothing PLA
Solvent smoothing (limited use)
Unlike ABS, which smooths easily with acetone vapour, PLA resists most solvents. Even so, a few approaches do work:
Tetrahydrofuran (THF):
- Effective on PLA, but extremely hazardous
- Toxic and a suspected carcinogen
- NOT recommended for home use
- Requires professional equipment and protection
Ethyl acetate:
- A safer alternative to THF
- Moderately effective on PLA
- Still needs good ventilation
- Can be used for partial smoothing
Important: chemical smoothing of PLA carries significant health risks and isn't recommended for beginners, or for home use without the right equipment.
Heat smoothing
Controlled heat can even out surface imperfections on PLA without any chemicals.
The hot air method:
- Use a heat gun on its lowest temperature setting
- Hold it 15–20 cm from the object
- Move it quickly and evenly
- Stop as soon as the surface turns glossy
Risks:
- The model deforms easily
- Fine detail can be lost
- It takes practice and experience
Epoxy coating
A thin coat of epoxy resin doesn't just smooth a PLA print, it also strengthens it:
- Mix a two-part epoxy resin according to the instructions
- Brush on a thin, even coat
- Leave it to cure as long as the manufacturer recommends
- If needed, sand and polish once it has hardened
Coatings and fillers

XTC-3D and similar coatings
XTC-3D is a two-part coating made specifically for smoothing 3D prints.
Advantages:
- Self-levelling
- Leaves a smooth, hard surface
- Easy to apply
- Works on all common FDM materials
How to apply it:
- Clean the surface thoroughly
- Mix the two parts at the manufacturer's ratio (2:1 by volume for XTC-3D)
- Brush it on or pour it over the model
- Let the excess run off for 2–3 minutes
- Leave it to cure for 4 hours
Filler primer and acrylic fillers
Automotive fillers and dedicated 3D printing primers are an excellent way to fill in layer lines.
How to work with them:
- Spray on filler primer in thin coats
- Let it dry
- Sand lightly with fine sandpaper (400–600 grit)
- Repeat 2–3 times until you get the result you want
- Finish with a top coat of paint
This method works especially well before you paint a model.
Bondo and car body filler
For bigger imperfections and filling gaps:
- Apply it with a spreader
- Let it harden
- Sand it to the shape you want
- Suits functional, structural models rather than detailed figurines
PLA smoothing methods compared
| Method | Difficulty | Cost | Effectiveness | Time | Safety |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hand sanding | Low | Very low | High | Long | High |
| Dremel polishing | Medium | Medium | High | Medium | Medium |
| THF vapour | High | High | Very high | Short | Very low |
| Ethyl acetate | Medium | Medium | Medium | Medium | Low |
| Hot air | Medium | Low | Medium | Short | Medium |
| XTC-3D | Low | High | Very high | Medium | High |
| Spray filler primer | Low | Medium | High | Medium | Medium |
| Epoxy resin | Medium | Medium | High | Long | Medium |
Get a smoother finish straight off the printer
The best route to a smooth surface is to optimise the 3D printing itself.
Slicer settings:
- Layer height: 0.1–0.12 mm for fine detail
- Temperature: the optimum for your particular PLA (usually 200–215 °C)
- Speed: slower printing (40–50 mm/s) for better quality
- Retraction: tuned correctly, it prevents stringing
- Cooling: enough part cooling for crisp edges
Settings for a smoother outer wall:
- Enable ‘Outer wall wipe distance’
- Use ‘Z-hop’ on retraction
- Fine-tune the ‘Coasting’ settings
- Reduce the ‘Line width’ for outer walls
Model orientation:
Orienting the model well on the print bed can dramatically reduce the post-processing it needs:
- Place the model so its visible surfaces are perpendicular to the print bed
- Keep supports off visible areas as far as you can
- Think about the direction of the layers in relation to what the part has to do
Combining techniques for a professional finish
For a truly professional finish, combine several methods.

Recommended sequence:
- Clean-up: remove supports and rough bumps
- Coarse sanding (120–240 grit): level the surface
- Filling: apply primer or XTC-3D
- Fine sanding (400–800 grit): refine the finish
- Polishing: for a mirror-like surface (optional)
- Painting: the final coat (if you want one)
Tips by type of print
Functional parts
For parts that will be used mechanically:
- Focus on the surfaces that matter
- Use epoxy resin to strengthen them
- Don't sacrifice dimensional accuracy for looks
Display models and figurines
For display pieces (such as Warhammer miniatures or lithophanes):
- Invest time in sanding through several grits
- Use XTC-3D or a similar product
- Finish with a good-quality paint job
- Polish to a high level of smoothness
Prototypes
For quick prototypes:
- Use spray filler primer for a fast result
- Focus on the overall look, not perfection
- Pick out the key details with a marker
Post-processing safety
When you work on 3D printed models and with chemicals, take these precautions.
Personal protection:
- Wear a suitable mask (FFP2/FFP3 when sanding)
- Use safety glasses
- Wear gloves when handling chemicals
- Wear work clothes
Workspace:
- Make sure the ventilation is excellent
- Work outdoors or in a workshop with dust extraction
- Don't eat in the work area
- Store chemicals properly
Waste disposal:
- PLA dust and particles: general waste
- Chemicals: according to local regulations
- Used sandpaper: general waste
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Sanding too aggressively
Problem: lost detail and a distorted shape
Solution: work gradually, check often and switch to finer sandpaper
Uneven coating
Problem: drips and bumps in XTC-3D or resin
Solution: apply thin coats, rotate the object and use a brush
Melting the material while polishing
Problem: heat deformation from a Dremel
Solution: lower speed, less pressure and frequent breaks
Poor preparation before painting
Problem: the paint peels and the surface is uneven
Solution: prime properly and sand between coats
Conclusion
Smoothing PLA prints is a skill that grows with practice. There's no single ‘best’ method. Each approach has its strengths, depending on the project, the time you have and the result you want.
If you're a beginner, we recommend starting with sanding and spray filler primer. Both are safe, affordable and give predictable results. As you gain experience, you can try more advanced techniques such as XTC-3D or a combination of methods.
Remember that the quality of the final piece depends not only on post-processing but also on well-tuned printer settings. Time spent on calibration and on experimenting with your settings pays off in a better result straight off the printer.
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If you'd rather not deal with printing yourself, or you need a specific project printed well, the 3dpechat.bg team can help. We're a 3D printing service in Sofia and print with FDM technology. PLA is our main material and the one we keep in stock; other materials, such as PETG or TPU, are possible on request, and we buy them specially for your order.
You can start from a ready 3D model, a sketch, a photo or just an idea. Send your files (STL, 3MF, OBJ or STEP) by email. The first quote and the consultation are free, and we usually reply within 24 hours. Get in touch through the enquiry form or email, or work out a rough price first with our price calculator.
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